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If you’re anything like me, you’ve likely battled the siren call of your sweet tooth more times than you care to admit. You’ve tried, truly tried, to tame those cravings. Yet, as the years seem to zoom by faster than a Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird, you’ve come to strike a delicate balance—one where indulgence is carefully orchestrated, a sweet reprieve strategically woven into the rhythm of an otherwise healthy diet. And what better moment for such indulgence than with a glass (or two) of this magnificent Sauternes?
I’ve had the good fortune of tasting some of the world’s most revered Sauternes, and let’s face it, it would be a crime against my profession not to partake in these decadent experiences. As a sommelier, I consider it my sacred duty to unearth the finest Sauternes from across the globe—and I’m thoroughly enjoying the journey. All in moderation, of course. But don’t think for a second that I’m done; Bordeaux beckons, and I can’t resist deepening this quest to craft the ultimate list of Sauternes from France. Watch this space!
The Story Behind Chateau d’Yquem
With over 400 years of rich heritage, Château d’Yquem stands as a beacon of winemaking excellence, helmed by passionate individuals and, at times, powerful women, who have woven this château into a global icon. The story begins in 1453 when Aquitaine transitioned from English to French rule. Fast forward to 1711, and a local nobleman, Jacques Sauvage, was granted tenure over Yquem, laying the foundation for centuries of masterful winemaking.
Today, Château d’Yquem is part of the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH) empire, acquired in 1999. Its owner, Bernard Arnault, is one of the richest individuals in the world. With his vision, Yquem’s legendary story continues, maintaining a careful balance between its storied tradition and modern advancements.
In 1855, Château d’Yquem received the distinguished title of Premier Cru Supérieur, solidifying its status among the world’s finest sweet wines. Over four centuries, the Sauvage and Lur Saluces families have upheld this extraordinary legacy.
Sauternes: The Jewel of Bordeaux
Sauternes, located in the southern region of Bordeaux, is famed for producing the highest quality sweet wines. The area, especially Barsac, Bommes, and Fargues, benefits from a unique microclimate near the Ciron River, creating the perfect misty mornings and warm afternoons essential for producing world-class sweet wines.
At the heart of Sauternes lies Château d’Yquem, whose label proudly reads “Premier Cru Supérieur,” marking it as the epitome of this region’s wine-making mastery.
The Team Behind the Magic
Château d’Yquem is currently led by Pierre Lurton, alongside Estate Manager Lorenzo Pasquini and Cellar Master Toni El Khawand. Their combined expertise and commitment continue to elevate Yquem’s already legendary status.
Quote from Pierre Lurton:
“I believe that the idea of risk, which is essential here, involves pushing standards as high as possible. The daring approach we took in 1967, a year of great risks, produced an iconic vintage and is emblematic of what makes us stand out.”
Crafting the Legendary Sweet Wine
Sauternes wines are primarily composed of the Sémillon grape, which accounts for 75% of the blend, providing body, richness, and structure with aromatic notes of beeswax and apricot. Sauvignon Blanc (25%) adds refreshing acidity and finesse, while a hint of Muscadelle (5%) brings floral, grapey nuances to the mix.
But what truly sets Sauternes apart is the role of Botrytis cinerea, also known as “noble rot.” This beneficial fungus thrives in the damp, misty mornings of the region, attacking the grapes in a way that concentrates their sugars and flavors, while shrinking them into sweet, golden gems. This delicate balance of conditions, paired with painstaking hand-picking, ensures that only the ripest, most perfect grapes are selected.
The grapes are harvested between October and December, with pickers meticulously scouring the vineyard multiple times to find those that have reached optimal rot. At Château d’Yquem, the grapes are pressed several times, with the sugar content increasing with each pressing. Fermentation occurs in oak barrels, with aging lasting 18 to 36 months to impart richness, complexity, and elegance.
A Labor of Love
The process is intricate and time-consuming. Only new French oak barrels are used, and each must be carefully monitored. The wine’s fermentation can take up to six weeks, with alcohol levels hovering around 13.5%, and every barrel is topped off twice a week to ensure the wine’s integrity. The rigorous attention to detail extends to the cellar, where each barrel is racked multiple times to remove sediment and ensure clarity.
The estate’s terroir, with its varied soils and favorable climate, contributes immensely to the complexity of the wines produced here. It’s no wonder that Château d’Yquem remains an undisputed leader in the world of Sauternes.
Sauternes Vintage Highlights
Recent years have seen standout vintages in 2022 and 2021, with the 2020 and 2023 vintages also showing great promise. And while the château’s production has spanned centuries, the iconic vintages of 1855 and 1867 remain benchmarks of excellence.
The Essence of Château d’Yquem
On the nose, a well-aged Château d’Yquem reveals layers of cinnamon, caramel, marmalade, and butterscotch. Silky and sumptuous, the wine’s remarkable balance of sweetness and acidity unfolds on the palate, its lingering aftertaste spreading like a peacock’s tail—a phenomenon the French lovingly describe as il fait la queue du paon.
Final Thoughts
For me, there’s no sweeter indulgence than a glass of Sauternes, especially when it’s as opulent as Château d’Yquem. Paired with a crisp white Chardonnay or even a Zinfandel, the experience is pure magic. Keep an eye on my top picks from Bordeaux—this journey is far from over!
